Barbour x Engineered Garments
New York City’s Engineered Garments received an invitation from Barbour to work together on a AW18 collaboration, two huge names working together for the first time ever. This Autumn, after showing at London Fashion Week Men’s AW18, the five-piece capsule collection launches across a limited number of doors, including The Hip Store.
This collaboration incorporates classic Barbour silhouettes together with Engineered Garment’s offbeat angles and clothes making talents. Each jacket is distinctively Barbour but will still feel familiar amongst Engineered Garment’s cult following. Daiki Suzuki has deftly rearranged a handful of Barbour silhouettes respecting the brand’s heritage whilst layering a solid EG-twist into the mix.
This capsule collection includes an outerwear quintet comprises of a Cowen, Parka, Graham, Dumbo and a Cape jacket arriving in muted tones of olive, navy and black. Each piece is made in England using Barbour’s signature waxed cotton that ages gracefully and is both water-repellent and rugged in composition. Within each jacket there is a hint of EG, whether it is the pocket placement, oversized features, reimagined game pockets or unorthodox shapes.
The Cowen jacket takes design cues from the military-inspired Barbour Cowen Commander jacket, developed from a wartime design and now a Barbour legend. The original jacket served military men in the British army in both the Falklands and the Gulf before going into retirement in the form of the Barbour Archives. An over-the-head smock-style jacket with adjustable drawstrings, several different-sized pockets, a large hood and a centre-back zip access.
Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments on the Cowen, “This is essentially our Overparka style that we have been doing for some time now, with a mix of stylings from the Cowen Commando, a style I really like”.
The Dumbo jacket is named after the Down-Under-Manhattan-Bridge-Overpass (Dumbo) area in New York and borrows design notes from the MA-1 military jacket and the classic varsity sports jacket. Features include roomy one-piece raglan sleeves, a rear poacher’s pocket (borrowed from the Beaufort) and a ribbed finish to the hemline, collar and cuffs and a zip fastening.
Daiki Suzuki: “My best everyday jacket style and one I have been doing for a long time is our Aviator jacket with MA-1, Tanker, A-2, Military Bomber Styles and Eddie Bauer all-purpose jackets in mind. With neck cuffs, bottom knit rib, it’s a direct injection of our jacket with a Barbour makeup and styling.
The Parka is a large functional coat with storage aplenty via numerous pockets. This jacket takes functionality from Barbour country classics with a dose of military spec.
Daiki Suzuki: “This is like an M-65 or M-51 jacket with another favourite, the Durham Jacket, all put into a blender”.
The Graham jacket takes elements from both the Bedale and Beaufort Barbour jackets such as the turn-down collar, snap-button placket, open cuffs and the poacher’s pocket. A classic shape with a contemporary cut.
Daiki Suzuki: “I really love the Beaufort so much, with details like the inside hidden pocket and game bag with 2 side entries but really would want it to be shorter for everyday use. My favourite military jackets, the A-2 Deck Jacket and Short Fatigue/Garrison Jacket come to mind so simply shortening it and adapting it to the length was the approach”.
The Cape is a statement item, based on a military policeman’s cape featuring a ‘turn-right’ asymmetric cut with an adjustable harness.
Daiki Suzuki: “I loved the reissue cape so I just wanted a British Military feeling added to the mix. The line for instance is so unique and special”.
Barbour x Engineered Garments is coming soon to The Hip Store.