Behind The Design: Daiki Suzuki Of Engineered Garments

During our visit to New York earlier this year at the Engineered Garments show room, we caught up with founder and designer Daiki Suzuki to talk surfing, opening Nepenthes London and his latest SS20 collection.
Thanks for your time Daiki – Firstly, what does your usual day look like?
My usual day starts early in the morning at 5:30am. I come in to the office around 7:00am. Checking emails first and then start working on things I have to do for the day. I finish work roughly around 7 and go home for the day. Nothing fancy.
How do you manage working within within the fashion calendar?
I don’t really manage much. I just do my part of the job, which are the designs and my sales team and development team take it from there. They are really good at what they do.
We’ve heard you enjoy going surfing in and around Long Island New York when possible, how is it going?
I used to go a lot more often but as I get older, I can’t go in the Winter anymore. My surfing season starts from May and ends in November. My board is getting longer and my favourite waves are beach breaks that range from small to mild. I just feel great in nature floating on the water.

Congratulations on the opening of the London Nepenthes location earlier in 2019, the store follows a similar unconventional approach geographically as the New York store. Please can you elaborate on how you found the location in Woburn walk and the thought process behind deciding to open up in Europe?
It was a project led by our Tokyo head office and the decision was made by my boss Keizo Shimizu. In the past 30 years, whenever we visit London we would stay at the same hotel in the Euston area, which is very near the location of our London store now. We knew the neighborhood very well and the old shopping alley was always something that caught our eye. Since we opened our first store in Tokyo, we have been opening our stores specifically in areas that were away from the major prime shopping places, so this is very much a Nepenthes way to me.


Despite EG being known well for not sticking to one set theme and being more of a combination of inspirations, for SS20 we have noticed rich floral all over and embroidered prints coming through in the new collection. What drew you to this direction for SS20 and are there any other under-lying themes we may have missed?
Something new that I did for this season was I found myself researching more towards the European style of workwear, military uniform and sportswear.

Your unconventional and unique design processes are well documented – drawing inspiration from your Made in USA archive and also everyday experiences. We were wondering if you could briefly explain the inspirations and utility aspects for these new and staple items from our SS20 Engineered Garments delivery?

Inspired by vintage French and some other European military pants. The way they set the cargo pockets is very much different from US ones.

It’s a mixed design of US old BDU jackets and the one they use now with some additional details from other military jackets combined.

The design is a very authentic American classic style, but I arranged for it to be bit oversize and picked some interesting fabric like this one, which originally came from a salesman sample fabric.

Indigo Denim Floral Short Fatigue Short
I always love our Fatigue shorts for the Summer and denim fabric has been a staple for this. I just wanted to add some fun with the floral embroidery to make it look fresh.

Hawaiian Floral Atlantic Parka
This is another staple piece of our summer jackets. Detailed as a vintage outdoor parka and paired with some vintage surf wear material of the floral micro fibre.
To finish off, do you have any advice for up and coming designers looking to build their own brand?
It’s a good idea to come up with your own concept or philosophy. It doesn’t have to be a big discovery. Just find something new from whatever you see, touch, hear, feel in your life and try to bring it into what you want to do.
The Engineered Garments SS20 collection is online now.

Getting To Know: Leo Gamboa – Reebok

As we are all encouraged to stay working at home during these difficult times, we connected with friends from some of our favourite brands here at Hip to get an insight into their worlds. This week, we caught up with Leo Gamboa, Global Streetwear Collaborations Manager at Reebok to check in on his current situation at his home in Boston.
Hi Leo, please introduce yourself and your role at Reebok?
Hey, I’m Leo Gamboa and I am the global collaborations manager for streetwear collaborations at Reebok. Currently 2 years in the role – I have been working on projects such as JJJJound, Awake and Needles.
Where are you currently in the world?
Boston
What’s your guilty pleasure working from home song?
Bizarre Love Triangle – New Order

Your go to comfy WFH piece from Reebok?
Sherpa Beatnik
Sofa, desk or garden office?
Desk

Current media diet?
Blood Orange / Tribe called quest / Bach – Netflix and HBO GO
Which objects at home are keeping you sane?
Grill, TV and Sonos

What things in life have you come to appreciate more during these times?
In the current state I have definitely learned to appreciate time with friends and family and to take advantage of being outside as much as possible. Times like this we realize to not take things for granted.
If the world went back to normal tomorrow what is the first thing you’d do?
Hmmm. Meet with some family and friends for meal and cold drink.
There’s usually a silver lining with all tricky situations, what’s yours?
Taking advantage of time at home to organize haha. People sometimes say I wish I had a week to work from home to catch up and get themselves together and now we have that so def use this time to do those things.
Stay up to to date with Leo here view our latest arrivals from Reebok here and keep an eye out for more in this series over the next few weeks.

Getting To Know: Christian Rice – Adsum

As we are all encouraged to stay working at home during these difficult times, we connected with friends from some of our favourite brands here at Hip to get an insight into their worlds. This week, we caught up with Christian Rice, Partner and Art Director at Adsum to check in on his current situation at his home in Brooklyn, New York.
Hi Christian, please introduce yourself and your role at Adsum?
Hi I’m Christian Richard Rice and I’m a Partner & Art Director at Adsum. It’s basically a fancy way of saying graphic designer, photographer, and web developer. We’re a small company so we all wear a lot of hats.
Where are you currently in the world?
Brooklyn, NY. Specifically, the Greenpoint area which is the northernmost neighborhood of Brooklyn, right before you hit Queens. Because it’s hard to get to, it still has a special something to it that other areas around it are losing. I have a love/hate relationship with it.
What’s your guilty pleasure working from home song?
I don’t believe in guilty pleasures but if it’s a song most people would be embarrassed to like but I unabashedly do and have no qualms about it, there are a lot, but let’s go with… Rusted Root’s “Send me on my Way”. As a general rule you probably shouldn’t like songs featuring a pan flute played by a white guy from Pittsburgh, culturally confused music videos, or that were once featured on a Music from Party of Five compilation… but try to watch the video and not miss the exuberant naïveté of the 90s in America. I’ve now watched it three times while I wrote this answer. Why is that kid wearing angel wings? Was a door in the middle of the desert as empty of a metaphor then as it is now? Why does this make me want to start collecting silver and turquoise jewelry?

Your go to comfy WFH piece from Adsum?
Our made in Japan fleece sweatpants from FW18 I think. The quality of these is incredible and they’re still holding up despite a lot rough goes through the wash. Anyone who got a pair usually brings them up when they meet us. Those and one of our white pocket tees with dried toothpaste drips going down the front is pretty much the uniform
Sofa, desk or garden office?
I live with my girlfriend who is also working from home and it’s NYC so we’ve been doing alternating between desk and couch. We each get half a day on either. Since quarantine, we’ve moved the desk out from its usual position in a nook to be in the living area to get some natural light. Very necessary when you’re not supposed to go outside.

Current media diet?
Books – I just took a break from Infinite Jest after a challenge by my brother (It’s unclear if this was a real challenge. I think I was just talking about how I liked his essays and he asked if I had read Infinite Jest yet…) to read The Topeka School. I’ve yet to form an opinion. It’s held my interest and there have been a few sentences and insights that have hit me hard enough to keep me reading.
Music – I’m lucky enough to have a job where I can listen to a lot of music. It’s one of the reasons I got into graphic design. I’ll just make a couple Spotify playlists as I usually listen to music that falls into 2 categories—one is easy listening and appeals to a wide variety of people, let’s call that “Down The Middle”, and then I have a side of me that just likes songs that sound original or like nothing else. People don’t usually like these songs but they feel more personal or at least specific to me and my tastes. I called that one “A Little To The Right”. Both are about an hour and should steer you right.
Movies – We’ve tried to keep it light and escapist during this time so the last two were Monty Python and the Holy Grail and Step Brothers. I’ve seen Holy Grail Easily over 20 times now and it’s still my favorite movie.
Podcasts – A lot of podcasts have become annoying to me during this time. Unfortunately, everyone thinks people want to hear their opinion on COVID-19. I don’t. I get it but it’s not what I’m looking for. Thankfully, my favorite podcast Comedy Bang Bang has been sticking to their format as much as possible. It’s usually the best part of every Monday.

Which objects at home are keeping you sane?
The occasional drink, my PS4 for alternating between Call of Duty and Death Stranding, DJ controller for making mixes no one will hear, computer for work, iPad for reading and an Apple Pencil for digital drawings.
What things in life have you come to appreciate more during these times?
There are the obvious things like overall health, family, my girlfriend, friends, having a nice safe apartment but, more specifically, or at least more germane to me, are my hobbies. As a person who’s moved almost every 4 years since I was born, finding hobbies was lifesaving. I’m basically the same person and do the same things I did when I was 12. Around then I was messing around on my turntables and watching DJ Qbert videos, making collages on hacked versions of Photoshop, and then playing Tomb Raider with Oasis blasting. Now I have a MIDI controller and watch Boiler Room, edit photos on a paid version of Photoshop, and play Call Of Duty while FaceTiming with my brother.

If the world went back to normal tomorrow what is the first thing you’d do?
I’d go out to eat at Bernie’s and then grab a drink at a bar like Achilles Heel Living in Brooklyn we’re spoiled with amazing restaurants. Unfortunately, these are the industries that have been probably been hurt the most during this and I don’t know if government assistance is going to be able to help them in a similar way banks and car companies were bailed out in our last recession. I truly don’t know what type of world we will all walk out to at the end of this.
There’s usually a silver lining with all tricky situations, what’s yours?
I think it’s a general reminder and appreciation for what I have and what is really important in life. NYC is the home of distraction and the working grind. When you’re forced to stay at home all day, you have to slow down a little, which forces you to think more deeply. I think I may have better understanding of what is important to me and what things I actually derive value from.
Stay up to to date with Christian here, view our latest SS20 arrivals from Adsum here and keep an eye out for more in this series over the next few weeks.

YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 ‘Linen’

adidas + KANYE WEST present the all new YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 “Linen”. Featuring a light beige upper composed of re-engineered Primeknit, the YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 “Linen” incorporates the reflective monofilament stripe woven with into it’s side and rear with adidas’ innovative BOOST technology in the midsole encased in a light beige cover and gum outsole. The adidas + KANYE WEST YEEZY BOOST 350 V2 “Linen” launches at The Hip Store on 18/04/20 online via our raffle.
