Behind The Design: Shinya Hasegawa Of Battenwear
To mark the arrival of our latest Battenwear AW19 delivery, we spoke to founder and designer Shinya Hasegawa to learn more about the history of the brand, details behind this seasons collection and what inspires him day on a daily basis.
Could you explain how Battenwear began and the main concept of the brand for those who may not know?
SHINYA: I started Battenwear in in 2011 in Brooklyn, NY. I’d long been a collector of classic American outdoor clothing and sportswear, actually ever since I was a teenager in Tokyo. I really love the details and practicality of old mountain parkas and hiking bags and athletic gear. I also like how a lot of American brands focus on durability and functionality—the lack of focus on fashion makes it cool to me. Especially when you mix it with contemporary fashion pieces.
When I was coming up with the concept for Battenwear, I mainly wanted to make functional gear for the activities I like most: surfing trips, hiking, camping, and traveling. I wanted everything I made to have classic details and construction but also look contemporary. The Travel Shell Parka was the first item I made. I wanted a jacket that I could wear hard on a hike in the woods that would also look great when I came back into the city—so that I would have to pack only one jacket when I traveled.
You travel a lot between surfing and working in New York and also exploring the outdoors and working on Battenwear in your second office in California – how does this influence your designs?
SHINYA: There’s an amazing and really helpful contrast between New York’s Garment District, where our first office opened, and Topanga Canyon in California, where I live and keep my design studio. The work I do in New York is set to the sound track of sirens and honking horns. In Topanga, it’s crickets and frogs and birdsong. Both places have great communities. In New York, it’s MUCH easier to do everything because our factories and suppliers are all within easy walking distance. In addition, there’s so much sensory influence—just getting on the subway, you can study new trends in colors and silhouettes. New York is a truly unique place and I miss it a lot when I’m not there. But in Topanga, it’s easier to focus on the designs and be creative, especially since I can clear my head anytime with a quick hike Topanga State Park or a surf session with friends at the beach close by. I really enjoy being able to live in nature in California in a way that’s impossible in New York.
Is there a particular piece in the new AW19 collection which you are excited about?
SHINYA: I made a new down jacket called the Batten-Down Deck Jacket. I call it my “dad jacket” because it feels like the jacket I want to be wearing to pick up my kids and go camping in. It hasn’t really started to be autumn yet in southern California, but I’m really looking forward to wearing this jacket when it finally cools down in Topanga.
You are known to enjoy vintage made in USA garments, which brands are impressing you with their current collections?
SHINYA: Hmm. I wish I had a better answer for this. I wish there were more made in USA brands. Of course I really like Engineered Garments. Daiki has long been my mentor and friend. He always makes something new and unique and groundbreaking, and that really inspires me and motivates me. But I don’t know about a lot of other made in USA brands that are active right now.
We love hearing about stories that influence your designs such as the extra pocket seen on your 5-pocket Canyon Shirt inspired by the need to have a extra pocket that fits a subway card whilst on the way to the beach carrying a surfboard – please could you explain inspirations or any more stories like this you may have behind these items from your AW19 collection?
SHINYA: I started designing this jacket during the Polar Vortex in 2013 for AW14. It was so amazingly cold in Manhattan that winter and I really wanted something that would help me feel like I could survive it. I asked my wife what I should call this parka and she suggested “Northfield” because that’s the name of the town in Minnesota where she went to college. Her freshman year of college, they had so much snow and cold weather that she almost gave up. This is the jacket she wished she had. It’s still one of my favorites for winter.
SHINYA: Living in Topanga, CA, I love going hiking in the evenings. I like my Five Pocket Island Shirt a lot and wanted to have a long sleeve version as a kind of shirt jacket. So I made this.
SHINYA: I played rugby in Japan as a teenager and I really fell in love with the sport and the gear. I still have my old rugby shirts and shorts. A couple of years ago I was able to get in touch with a factory in Canada that could make a truly authentic rugby shirt so I jumped at the chance. I added the chest pocket to make the shirt more practical for everyday wear.
SHINYA: This is another made in Canada item. Canada does such good knits—they have different machinery than we do in the US. I really love this hoody and wanted to make a version of it with our logo printed on it. Like, join the team!
Lastly, which was the last book read and record you listened to that you felt inspired you?
SHINYA: Once of the most recent, best books I read was Shoe Dog by Phil Knight. I really enjoyed learning about the history of Nike. All chapters ended in failure—there were so many challenges that they faced when building the brand. The message of struggle was inspiring. Because of course, with a small brand like Battenwear, we have daily struggle. It encouraged me to keep on trying. And it encouraged me to see the benefits of making mistakes.
For music, I’ve been on 1990’s electronic kick lately, like Stereolab and Apex Twins. I’m not sure why. Maybe it’s because when I’m designing I tend to get nostalgic and like to think about when I felt really happy and inspired, like in college, which is when I was most into these bands.
New AW19 arrivals from Battenwear. Online now.
Kickers x Hikerdelic Event Recap
To celebrate the release of the AW19 Kickers x Hikerdelic Kick Hi collaboration, we joined with both brands to hold the official launch event which took place in our flagship Leeds store last week.
The night featured early access to get hands on with and purchase the collaboration alongside Hikerdlic gift bags, food by Poco Sicilian and drinks by Leeds Brewery. Catch up with what went down at the event below and keep an eye out for more events in the future.
The Kickers x Hikerdelic AW19 Kick Hi is online now.
Kickers x Hikerdelic AW19 Kick Hi
For AW19, Iconic footwear brand Kickers have partnered with Manchester based Hikerdelic to create a new take on the classic Kick Hi silhouette.
“Not ones for counting our blessings, when the opportunity came to collaborate on one of the most iconic shoes in the world, we jumped at the chance. The Kickers Kick Hi is more than a just a cool pair of boots, it’s a twentieth icon. Whether worn by French school kids having a crafty Gauloise on the channel ferry, ortho-obsessed 80s casuals, the revolutionary Rik from the Young Ones or a generation of bug-eyed ravers and pissed up Brit Poppers, the Kick Hi remains both exotic and ubiquitous.” – Neil Summers, Hikerdelic.
Not wanting to mess with a classic formula too much, the ‘Kick Hikerdelic’ product has kept the French DNA and added some Stockport ‘Je ne sais quoi into the mix. So expect three Autumnal tones of suede, a hiking lace option, a branded tongue, embossed logos and a very special fleurette.
The Kickers x Hikerdelic AW19 Kick Hi is online now.
Behind The Design: Kazu Yokotsuka Of Lavenham
Since 1969, Lavenham have been producing premium quilted clothing proudly made in England. Working with only the finest British cloth manufacturers, every single Lavenham item is still made just 6 miles from the location of their very first factory in Suffolk. The wadding found in Lavenham’s quilting comes from the North of England and is made using 65% recycled fibres along with a full repair service where the same hands who originally crafted your gilet or jacket will repair it, if it needs it.
For AW19 we are excited to introduce Lavenham into our globally sourced brand collection. Wanting to get into the DNA of the brand and find out more, we spoke to Kazu Yokotsuka – head of creative at Lavenham.
Currently based in Tokyo, Kazu has a deep affinity for the UK, it’s style and heritage in manufacturing from studying at Central Saint Martins and spending long spells living in London. Kazu also has had his own label in Japan and held senior design roles at British brands, including being part of the original MHL. design team at Margaret Howell.
Hi Kazu, thanks for taking the time to talk to us. You have spent time before living in London and also studying at CSM – what were your initial impressions on England from a style standpoint and was there any differences that stood out to you from Japan?
British style is famous all over the world. Influences come from lots of places including the climate, so there is a great sense of function and being fit for purpose alongside a history of tailoring and elegance. I can see a similarity to Japan in that way, so although the reference are different the bringing together of heritage and purpose exists well in both countries.
In our past visits to Tokyo, we have noticed a deep love and affinity for well crafted Made in England, USA and France apparel and footwear from brands such as Lavenham, Engineered Garments and Paraboot to name a few. Why do you think this manufacturing standpoint resonates so well with the Japanese market?
We are fortunate that Lavenham has a very strong customer base in Japan, it is well known here for quality. The Japanese customer is obsessed with quality and the brands you mention are also equally obsessive about craftsmanship, so you can say they are a good match for one another. We make every single product in our Suffolk factory and there are some very skilled people there. There are even ladies who can re-sew slipped quilting stitches by hand into the original needle holes! The skill and authenticity is why people come to us.
When designing for Lavenham, is there a particular mission you aim to achieve across each item and are there any Japanese suitabilities you look to crossover to bring to Lavenham being a heritage made in England label?
There are lots of great outerwear brands in the world, but only one Lavenham, so I always start from within our own DNA. We are 50 years old this year so there is a lot to be inspired by! It is also important for me to consider people actually wearing the final item. In Japan layering is a really important and that is fundamental to the Lavenham collection as well.
Which Lavenham item are you currently wearing the most?
I’m in our Heath Gilet in black. It is the perfect mid-layer for me, and a contemporary update on an original gilet we have been making since the very beginning of the brand.
What can we expect next from Lavenham?
We’ve got some really exciting collaboration projects coming up with people who share our philosophies but have played with our DNA in really interesting ways… but you’ll have to wait and see who.
New for AW19 – Lavenham. Online now.
