Air Max Day: In The Archives With Ross Wilson
To celebrate Nike Air Max Day this week – we visited DJ, brand consultant, auction house curator and all round streetwear guru Ross Wilson to explore his Air Max archive collection and talk about his top 4 all time silhouettes.
Hi Ross, thanks for taking the time to talk to us, firstly could you explain a bit about yourself for those who don’t know – what has your career entailed, what do you do know and where are you based?
I’m a DJ, writer, brand consultant and auction house curator. I work with a variety of interesting clients such as Highsnobiety, Christie’s, Sneaker Freaker, Sotheby’s, Soho House and Dr. Martens. I’m based in Somerset, but the majority of my work is all over the place — anywhere from New York to Melbourne.
What initially got you into sneakers?
My first pair of Nike’s were white/red Bruins when I was 10 years old and I thought they were the greatest thing ever! I wore them for everything – skateboarding, BMXing, having a kick about, etc.
A couple years later I saw Mark Gonzales wearing a pair of red/white/black Air Jordan 1’s in Thrasher magazine and I was fascinated by his hi-top leather Nikes. This was 1985/6 so I had no idea who Michael Jordan was (or what the shoes were called), but Gonz was my hero back then and he just looked so damn cool. A relative of mine visited the States later that year, and brought me back a pair of the same shoes Gonz was wearing in the photo I’d had pinned up on my wall for the past 8 months, I couldn’t believe it! I’ve been fascinated by interesting looking footwear ever since.
What were your first pair of Air Max and when did you get them?
The first Air Max I owned were the original AM 90 ‘Infared’ (called the Air Max III back then) in 1990. They just felt so different from anything else I’d owned before.
The legacy of Nike and Air Max is one of the most impressive and unrivalled when it comes to dedicated collectors, why do you think this is?
That’s a hard one for me to comment on as I’ve never considered myself an Air Max collector, or even a sneaker collector for that matter. I’ve always just bought what I like to wear, rather than to collect. I guess the Air Max line appeals to collectors as there are so many variations, collaborations and colourways of the well designed silhouettes.
You spent a lot of time travelling to New York in the ‘90s, what was this experience like travelling between the US and the UK and seeing the evolution of streetwear, sneakers and Air Max in particular?
It was a very different time back then – New York was the epicentre of sneaker culture at a time when ‘culture’ actually meant something. There was pretty much zero online stuff and the reseller scene hardly existed. You’d connect with people through a passion for sneakers, whether that was via sports, fashion, music or design – it was all about the look of the shoes rather than the status or the potential profit margin.
I’d hit up the bargain bins at Transit on Broadway for $20 Dunks, the Fulton St Mall in Brooklyn for retro Jordans or Footaction in Midtown for Air Maxes and Uptowns. The British Pound was so strong against the US Dollar back then, so sneakers were crazy cheap and the buzz of finding styles like Air Force 1s and Dunks that weren’t even available in the UK was kinda exciting.
I’d hang out at the Supreme store on Lafayette to chat shit and watch skate videos, check out various mom’n’pop sneaker stores across the 5 boroughs, then hit up the parties every night – it was a fun time to be in the city as there was a close-knit community of like-minded people who were all into skating, partying and sneakers and many of them remain some of my closest friends today. It was pretty much the birth of what we now call ‘streetwear’ so we were witnessing these creative people turn their passions and ideas into global brands.
The Air Max 90 ‘Infared’ hadn’t been available in the US since the OG, so when the European retro happened in 2003 it was like crack for people out there! The shoe was readily available in England so I was buying tons of them and hooking up all my mates in NYC – I’d lace up all the Supreme crew, the guys at Nom de Guerre, Stussy, Union and even some Nike employees. That shoe was so in demand, I’ve never seen anything like it since. I became known around NYC as ‘The British Nike Guy’ and even started getting requests from strangers looking for an Infared hook-up. Once JD Sports acquired the licence for Nike’s ‘NYC’ logo and started putting out Euro-exclusive Air Force 1s with this branding, it kicked up to yet another level! There was no StockX, no Flight Club, no Stadium Goods, etc. and stores didn’t really do international shipping, so I was supplying stores, collectors and sneakerheads with EU-exclusive Nikes. It was pretty crazy looking back!
What keeps you into sneakers and what does it take to grab your eye these days?
I mainly stick to the classics in general nowadays – my four favourite Air Max shoes, Dunk Highs, Air Force 1s, Air Jordan 1-6, Blazers, Bruins and Tailwinds.
All that new overhyped stuff gets so rammed down your throat through social media and blogs it just kinda puts me off wearing it. I was invited to an event in London and every single person in there was wearing the same shoes, it was like they were all clones! Sneakers used to be more about individuality, but now it feels a bit like people are more interested in being accepted rather than expressive with their footwear choices.
When it comes to Air Max in particular I stick to the four shoes that have kept me hooked ever since they first released – Air Max 90 ‘Infared’, Air Max 95 ‘White/Comet Red’, Air Max 95 ’Neon’, Air Max 97 ’Silver Bullet’. Those are all timers for me, each one looks as good now as it did when first released.
Please could you give a brief backstory of first purchasing the below sneakers and what drew you to them then and what keeps them fresh now?
I think this may be my all time favourite Air Max sneaker and definitely a colourway that flies under the radar for most people.
When this shoe first came out in 1995 I wanted it so badly but the £110 price tag seemed so crazy back then (when most sneakers cost around £40-£60). When they eventually ended up on sale so I picked up three pairs – the white/red/grey, volt/grey and white/green/black.
Although it’s one of the least popular AM95 versions, there’s something about the red/grey/black colour grading on the white leather/mesh just looks so good to me. The red air bubble and mini Swoosh finish it off perfectly. I’ve had three pairs of these since they first released and I wish Nike would retro them again as I’m down to my final one!
Alongside the Comet Red, this was my other must-have 95 when they first dropped. In 1995 I was running big raves all over the country and the AM95 was the DJs shoe of choice – it was incredibly comfortable and looked so futuristic. Sergio Lozano’s design based on the human anatomy just hit like nothing else before it, especially in the grey/volt colourway. This was a major obsession for some Japanese sneaker collectors and pre-worn pairs would be selling in Camden Market for £500+ which seemed bonkers back then! I’ve owned about seven pairs of these since 1995, with the last reissue in 2015 being the best quality since the OGs.
I feel like the 1990s was the golden era for Nike in terms of design. They were killing it with groundbreaking silhouettes like the Footscape, Air Rift, Air Moc, Terra Humara and stuff from the ACG line. It was an exciting time for me as hi-tech running sneakers were taking over from loafers as the essential footwear for the UK club scene, and nothing resonated with clubbers like the original Air Max 97. The sleek streamlined design and eye-catching metallic silver upper felt like a perfect mix of high fashion and functionality. The other colourways and remixes of this shoe never really appealed to me, it was all about that Japanese bullet train-inspired silver/red OG that looks as good now as it did 23 years ago.
This shoe is so timeless for me, it looks good with everything – denim, cargos, joggers, shorts, chinos. I’ve had so many versions of this shoe with all the retro’s they’ve put out over the years, and it never fails. I’m really selective when it comes to Air Max sneakers and these four models/colourways are the shoes that have stood the test of time for me personally, and will forever be in my rotation.
Shop Nike Air Max online now and keep up to date with Ross by following him here.
Days Off: Climbing At Brimham Rocks
To kick off our new ongoing feature – Days Off. We joined with friends of Hip Store Leeds Aimee and Jordan on their day off climbing at Brimham Rocks, Yorkshire in some of the new SS20 Patagonia gear. One of the standout pieces in the collection making a welcome return is the reworked and further developed 3L Torrentshell Jacket. Featuring new 3-layer H2No® Performance Standard tech for added waterproofness and breathability all made using Fair Trade Certified™ sewn recycled nylon.
Hi Jordan and Aimee, thanks for your time, tell us a little bit more about yourselves?
Thanks for having us come along, Jordan is a climbing instructor and route setter at a local climbing gym and Aimee is a Graphic Design student and part time stockroom assistant for Hip.
How did you first get into climbing?
Jordan: I got in to climbing through mountaineering in the Lake District and Scotland and this naturally progressed in to going rock climbing; now I do a bit of everything!
Aimee: Through Jordan and mutual friends I found myself heading down to a local climbing gym every so often and eventually this ended up with us going outside and travelling to new countries to do it.
We headed to Brimham Rocks, how was it to climb and what makes a good spot in your eyes?
Brimham is certainly a unique place with some cool looking rock formations. The climbing was good considering the not so great conditions and would certainly be much better on a dryer day. Nonetheless we found some cool problems to try. I think as long as you’ve found a really interesting boulder that you’re having fun on, thats what makes it a good spot!
Where else in Leeds is there places to go climb? What’s the climbing scene like?
One of the best places in Leeds would be Caley crag which is super close, along with Almscliffe and Ilkley. We tend to do a lot of sport climbing which is a bit further out towards the Yorkshire Dales but well worth the extra miles! There’s a great scene both indoors and outdoors with a bunch of friendly climbing gyms and an abundance of outdoor boulders, you eventually end up seeing familiar faces wherever you go making it a really positive and friendly environment.
As climbers, how does Patagonia influence your community, with their values on the environment and a culture of outdoor living?
As climbers with a love for the outdoors it’s really important sticking to brands that coincide with your morals. Personally for us, this has meant buying predominantly from Patagonia to support their incredible commitment and to the environment and sustainability in the fashion industry.
What else do you like to do in your down time?
We’re both big food lovers so we’ll probably be found eating a huge portion of food in front of the TV if we aren’t out climbing!
What aspects of climbing do you think others could benefit from most?
Climbing really helps with your mental health and wellbeing as with any form of exercise! As well as that it introduces a sense of adventure in to your life and allows you to travel to some of the most incredible places that you most likely would never go if you didn’t climb.
For those wanting to get into climbing, would you have any tips on how to start out?
The best way to start out would be to visit a local bouldering wall such as The Climbing Lab or City Bloc and get an introductory session or visit with a friend that’s climbed before!
Keep an eye out for more Days Off features in the future. Shop new Patagonia SS20 arrivals and the 3L Torrentshell Jacket online now.
YEEZY BOOST 380 ‘Mist’
adidas + KANYE WEST present the all new YEEZY BOOST 380 “Mist”. The YEEZY BOOST 380 Mist features an upper composed of multi-toned re-engineered Primeknit, a translucent monofilament window woven into the upper and a re-engineered full-length BOOST midsole. The adidas + KANYE WEST YEEZY BOOST 380 “Mist” launches at The Hip Store on 25/03/20 online only via our raffle.
Reebok Classics x Awake NY – In Discussion With Angelo Baque And Leo Gamboa
This March, Angelo Baque’s streetwear imprint Awake NY have joined with Reebok Classics to create a new spin on the Workout Lo Plus and Instapump Fury with accompanying apparel. The range pays homage to the ‘90s hip-hop and art movements of New York with nostalgic colorways and branding hits.
Ahead of the release, we spoke with founder, owner and designer of Awake NY Angelo Baque and Leo Gamboa – Head Of Global Streetwear Collaborations at Reebok Classics to talk inspirations, sneaker culture today, music and more.
Firstly, thanks for your time Leo and Angelo. How does it feel to be in your position for Reebok and Awake where you can make things happen to represent other brands and individuals to give them shine?
Leo:
For this collaboration, I identified who makes the most sense from Reebok and, having known Angelo for a very long time and understanding his history and his passion for Reebok, you know? As I got into this role, he was one of the first people I’ve actually reached out to initially. We just waited for the right time to kind of like, come together and make it happen. It was something that once I started, I brought it up to him and then it was just waiting for him to give me the green light.
Angelo:
That’s the main objective of my work, to be able to be a platform for others. Working with a company like Reebok helps broaden our reach. So I can help the next kid coming up. My main objective is always growth, not just financial growth, but growth of community and to take advantage of being in this mentor role.
How did the collaboration between Reebok and Awake originally arise?
Angelo:
I’ve been really spoiled in that I am friends with many of the people I collaborate with. We’ve all come up together so we’re going to support one another within our community. If I were on the outside looking in, I could say, oh, this is some big circle jerk nepotism ring. But it’s not. We’ve all been on the same grind, hustling, flipping, copping. We’ve all worked to be in these positions that we are in. For me, it’s like, how can I support Leo? How can you support me? It’s not so transactional. That’s why, for example, the Carhartt collaboration was so successful. Wilfred from their marketing team, we’ve been friends for 13 or 14 years, almost the same amount of time that I’ve known Leo.
Leo:
Just to add to that, I remember knowing Angelo and meeting up for the first time, then seeing how we’ve evolved over many, many years. Just friendship and chats to see where we are now. It’s kind of a surreal moment and say holy shit – This launch is going to be very special for myself and Reebok.
Where did the original concept for the chosen silhouettes (Workout and Instapump) come from?
Angelo:
I had a pair of Workouts in high school. It’s that simple. To me, it’s still very much a New York shoe. A lot of people don’t see it as a New York shoe because the narrative has been lost over the years. How do we make it fresh, new and relevant? When Palace does Reebok it’s very London. We have our own identity. We’re very New York. Personally, it’s important when someone sees the shoe and they think, that’s New York, that’s Awake, that’s Reebok.
Leo:
When Angelo came to visit the office, we were going through numerous different models to see what made the most sense for the first collaboration between the both of us. We wanted to pick something that we identified with. The Workout is one of those styles you would see us wearing a lot of. Angelo came up with the great idea of focusing on Japanese sneaker culture. The Fury is one of the most iconic sneakers in Japan. So, I think him adding that model to the storytelling is good offering for two different people, there’s a kid that wears only The Fury and that’s their aesthetic. But I also really identify with The Workout. So, we made the decision to offer both sides and both shoes are very strong in their own way.
Reebok and Awake have both been producing unexpected and exciting releases recently so it makes sense for you to finally meet, how long did the full collaboration process take?
Angelo:
Leo what do you think? A year?
Leo:
Yeah, I’d say it’s definitely been a year. There’s always some some unfortunate hiccups here and there, but it’s around a year from the initial conversation to go to market.
The Workout Plus has always been a classic silhouette, especially here in the UK. What is your earliest memory with the shoe and how does it resonate in New York?
Angelo:
When I think of Reebok and of the Workout silhouette, I think of Raekwon. A lot of people don’t see that association, but I think of Raekwon, Glaciers of Ice. Editorials of certain Wu Tang members wearing that shoe with military cargo pants tucked into their sock or a hockey Jersey. It’s all in my head, I can tell you which issue of The Source or Blaze Magazine that did a certain editorial with The Wu Tang clan. I look at it and I instantaneously go back to 1993 – ‘95 when that was a staple shoe and you had that in your catalogue. For me, that’s the correlation. I see that shoe and that’s the energy and the vibe that I get.
Leo:
To add on Angelo’s points, I definitely agree with him. If you go back to all the old videos and everything like that, you definitely see an icon of Reebok living. What Angelo said, it’s where I’m at.
Talk us through the colour ways and design for both styles, was there anything you set out to aim with these and are there any hidden references with the designs?
Angelo:
I wanted it to feel true to Reebok heritage. I wanted to tap into those colours that I saw when I was a kid – a certain green or blue or even that cream. That’s Reebok. You don’t question it. There’s an identity to the cream and the leather, with the blue and neon yellow-green. It’s very Reebok right? You think of Michael Chang and you think of the Pump. Reebok had its own energy in the early nineties. Over the years that narrative has been lost a little. For us it’s all about evoking a feeling and an emotion. The cream colorway takes me back to that time period. It isn’t nostalgia about being back in the early nineties, rather, it’s about getting that feeling today in the present moment, 2020.
Leo:
Like Angelo just said, he took some of the most iconic parts of both models and meshed them together to tell that iconic story. The cream and neon from The Fury – putting that together into one model is very interesting and fresh.
Outside of working on new collections, projects and collaborations, what do you do in your spare time to unwind from the hectic day to day?
Angelo:
I want to hear what Leo does *laughs*. I want to hear about Leo fishing outdoors on the weekend.
Leo:
I grew up in New York and I moved to Boston about two and a half years ago. We definitely don’t have the same energy as New York and have a lot of availability to enjoy the fruits of the city, it’s a lot slower here. So, to be honest, I’m very just chill here, I enjoy a lot of outdoor activities and I snowboard a lot. It’s a lot of just being outside, hiking, snowboarding. I feel like living in a city, when I was in New York I tried to escape and to kind of appreciate nature and stuff. Now that I don’t have like a city like that I just go outside a lot.
Angelo:
I just started boxing again. Boxing is important, as is meditation. Like what Leo saying, my biggest luxury is time. I don’t have enough of it. I’m on my old man shit, I like a nap on a Sunday for an hour. I’m happy, man, just being able to set aside five to ten minutes each morning to meditate and twice a week boxing is great. We aren’t getting any younger.
Leo:
Angelo is a good version of how old he is! He definitely looks and lives a great life. So, when you say like, uh, forties the new thirty, I think he’s a great definition of that.
Angelo:
Thank you Leo!
Sneaker culture has changed massively through the years, what do you see the next decade looking like?
Leo: To be honest, sneaker culture in the early days was different, I’d go to the store and have that excitement of buying something just because I walked in and saw it. It’s different to the having the interest of online product. There’s a lot of stories that are being told on a weekly basis and I just think that consumers are having a lot to choose from. I’d like the next decade to be a lot more concentrated, where each collaboration is not just doing a collaboration, just to do it. I’d like them to be more meaningful and organic, definitely not forced.
Angelo:
It’s hard to turn the ship around at this point. Kids will wait in line for a pair of kicks. They put it on Stock X and flip it. They buy it for $180 and sell it for 7-800 bucks the next day. How do you turn that culture around?
There is a huge system of people making money and everyone is playing a part from beginning to end. Shoe companies are producing more, the kids are consuming it and reselling it. Then there are resale platforms. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for any of that infrastructure to change. At this moment everyone’s eating.
Right now sneaker culture is about profit. I don’t know anyone who is collecting for the sake of collecting. When Leo and I met 20 years ago we were collecting. We bought one to wear and we bought one to break out in five years.
Music has always been a big thing here at Hip in our history and in the city of Leeds, exploring different genres and uncovered gems in the same way people explore their clothing and footwear styles. Like you once said Angelo, clothing stores are becoming the new record shops in a way. Could you name 3 classic albums that people may not have heard of, but stay in your all-time rotation?
Angelo:
Pulp, Different class. It’s one of my favourite albums. Leo, why don’t you chime in with an album man?
Leo:
Mine is a bit more basic. I’m very into the older hip hop, the low-end theory, Illmatic, 36 chambers. You’re not going to get something digged out of that for me. Tribe Called Quest were probably one of the early age rappers, I think they’re the best. That fashion was one of the most iconic fashion eras.
Angelo:
Another album I listen to is Company Flow – FunCrusher Plus. It might be a little too backpack
for you Leo, your ears might start bleeding *laughs*
It’s only on YouTube. I’ve got another one for you, Gil Scott-Heron, Bridges, only on YouTube.
That’s one of my favourite albums.
For the youth wanting to get into the creative side of the fashion industry, what advice could you share?
Angelo:
Just be ready to work. None of this is serendipitous, This is 20 years in the making. I’ve been in good relationships and working steady for over 20 years to get to the position that I’m in right now. Kids now have the advantage of social media and these other tools but at the end of the day you still need to work hard and to be original with some good ideas. Your ideas can’t all come off of Instagram.
Leo:
Something else I would say is, as you’re growing, never burn bridges. The industry is small, really small. It’s big but it’s small. What Angelo said earlier about everyone, being friends and supporting him, wanting him to do well. The last thing you ever want to do is burn a bridge because as you progress in life, no matter if it’s through work or through personal, something could always bite you in the back. Be humble and never burn bridges.
Angelo:
I’ll give you a perfect example; I’ve fired a few interns, but I still hit up the ones who left graciously, and ask them to work for me. Just because you got let go doesn’t mean that the relationship is over. Don’t let your ego get the best of you.
Is there anything coming in 2020 for Reebok (Leo) and Angelo (Awake) you would like to share or hint?
Angelo:
We have another shoe coming. Stay tuned, all will be revealed.
Leo:
Stay tuned!
The Awake NY x Reebok Classics Collection is online now.